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Reflecting the hardships of the business, an iconoclastic critic of 'Big Wine' sells his indie vineyard

January 28, 2020

The romantic idea of a small, individualistic winery tilting quixotically at the windmills of corporate wine took a hit this month with the news that Randall Grahm has sold Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm's story - his successes and failures - is quite personal and individual, yet the sale illustrates the difficulty small, independent wineries face in a market that is increasingly consolidated at every level.