Ask Darrell Corti to give you a tour of Corti Brothers market, and he may turn around to peer over the store he has helped run for 55 years, then shrug. His gaze sweeps over speckled linoleum floors and ceilings striped with fluorescent tubes. A deli ringed with customers waiting for sandwiches. A full butcher case, with actual butchers. A questionably tiny produce section. "It's just a market," he says, half apology, half reprimand.