Albariño Hotbed on The California Coast
August 15, 2019
San Luis Obispo, Calif.—San Luis Obispo (SLO) Coast on California’s Central Coast has emerged as a driving force on the domestic Albariño front, a testament to how the region’s ultra-coastal growing conditions are perfectly suited to New World expressions of this classic grape variety.
Indeed, this small region with less than 35 wineries already accounts for approximately 20 percent of California’s total Albariño acreage, generating more than 25 individual varietal bottlings from SLO Coast wineries and others. Several 2018 vintage local Albariños are now rolling out this summer.
“This is the New World hub for Albariño,” said John H. Niven of Niven Family Wine Estates. “The vineyards here are five miles from the ocean on average, which is key to growing authentic Albariño. The similarities between our wines and those from O Rosal in Rías Baixas are striking.”
Added Stephen Dooley, winemaker and proprietor at Stephen Ross Wine Cellars, “The signature qualities in SLO Coast Albariños include racy acidity; very fine mid-palate tannins that give it an edginess; salinity and minerality from the Pacific air; and wonderful citrus zest and orange blossom notes.”
According to the most recent California Grape Acreage Report, California was home to 289 bearing acres of Albariño. SLO Coast is home to more than 55 bearing acres of Albariño, all of which reside less than 5.5 miles from the ocean, with some as close as 1.2 miles. SLO Coast is located on the seafront side of the coastal mountain range in San Luis Obispo County, and includes two contiguous AVAs—the Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley.
The pronounced marine conditions of SLO Coast are ideal for coaxing essential qualities out of locally grown Albariño fruit, including notes of mineral, rose petal and brine with quenching citrus flavors, energetic acidity and hints of tropical fruit.
Leading the Albariño charge locally is Tangent Winery owned by the Niven family, which began betting big on the variety after conducting considerable trial and research, blind tastings and consultations with Spanish winemakers. Today, the Niven family’s Paragon Vineyard is home to 45 acres of Albariño. The local Albariño movement was first initiated when Alan Kinne first planted the variety at Jack Ranch in 2001, a vineyard that the Nivens have now leased for several years.
The Niven family’s bet on Albariño has paid off. In fact, their Tangent Albariño earned one of only three gold medals awarded at the 2016 Bacchus International Wine Competition in Madrid Spain—and was the only wine produced outside of Rias Baixas and Vinho Verde to win this prestigious award.
Other SLO Coast wineries producing Albariño include Autry Cellars, Croma Vera Wines, Filipponi Ranch Cellars, Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards, Niner Wine Estates, Peloton Cellars, Sinor-LaVallee Wine Company, Stephen Ross Wine Cellars and Verdad Wines. Additional local vineyards planted to Albariño include Jesperson Ranch (Niner), Bassi Ranch (Sinor-LaVallee) Sawyer-Lindquist (Verdad) and Spanish Springs.
“Albariño is well-suited to maritime climates such as ours,” said Jeremy Leffert, winemaker at Croma Vera Wines. “Our cool climate, with close proximity to the ocean, preserves the intense tropical aromatics that Albariño is best known for.”
Added Louisa Lindquist, winemaker and proprietor at Verdad Wines, “SLO Coast, in my opinion, is the best region in California for Albariño. The direct marine influence produces grapes with great acidity and balance, creating crisp vibrant wines that rival those of Spain.”
Technical Notes on Albariño
•Albariño is historically grown within a few miles of an ocean or seashore.
•In Spain, Val do Salnes and O Rosal are located a few miles from the Atlantic coast.
•In SLO Coast, the vineyards are located five miles from the Pacific Ocean on average.
SLO Coast’s Edna Valley features similar characteristics in terms of ocean proximity and climate as Galicia, Spain, as well as Maldonado, Uruguay—another epicenter of Albariño.
•O Rosal and Edna Valley both have a ridge of mountains separating the seashore from the vineyards and similar annual temperatures throughout the growing season. However, rainfall is three to four times higher in O Rosal than in Edna Valley (irrigation is permitted in California but forbidden in Spain).
*Technical notes adapted from Niven Family Wine Estates Albariño report.
About San Luis Obispo (SLO)
On the San Luis Obispo (SLO) Coast, the Pacific Ocean shapes our culture, our terrain and our wines. Here, where our vineyards reside just five miles from the water on average, the prevailing marine conditions are among the most pronounced of any wine region in California and beyond. Our ocean-cooled environment fosters unifying qualities that are native to the wines of SLO Coast. For details and wine tasting information, visit SLOCoastWine.com.