We all know the image of an hourglass on its side: On the left, the burgeoning ranks of small wineries, on the right the growing cadre of consumers eager to try their distinctive products. Posted athwart the narrow middle is the shrinking number of wholesalers able or willing to distribute "minor" brands. Most of us believe that the market would, if unconstrained by special interest legislation, establish efficient streams of commerce in lawful goods from willing seller to willing buyer, bypa...