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July 2003
The Voice of Riesling
by Nick Dumergue
Considered by many to be the greatest of all white grape varieties, Riesling can be difficult to master, yet can achieve heights to which others only aspire. For the voice of Riesling to speak it needs a very hands-on approach in the vineyards and hands-off in the cellar. Almost unlike any other variety it crucially needs picking in perfect balance followed by careful handling to tell a story of where it originates. It does not respond well to adjustments such as acidification, and any alteratio...
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