Today, wine tasting, wine judging and wine reviewing have evolved into perhaps the most important marketing tool of the global wine industry. Many would agree that the current wine styles are controlled by perceived consumer preferences, which are in turn highly influenced by tasting analyses and ratings of wine reviewers in the media.
This being the case, the question arises: how do educators, professional tasters, wine reviewers, wine merchants and others currently evaluate wines? What scorecards do they use to evaluate their ratings? Are their analyses objective, subjective or both? What problems exist with present-day scorecards that can skew or even invalidate the resulting ratings?
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Napa Valley College APPEARANCE (3 total) ODOR (7 total) TASTE (15 total) FINAL SCORE (25 total) ____ FINAL PRAISES THUMBS DOWN? (If yes, why?) CONCLUDING REMARKS Taster: ____________________ |
The NVC Scorecard is designed to be easy to use. It is thorough and asks for relevant judgments on the part of the taster. If the procedure laid out here is followed, the tasting conclusions should be straightforward and informative.
Current Scorecards
There were several attempts at developing wine rating systems in the early 20th century, but the most influential was the introduction of the UC Davis Scorecard (see below). The UC Davis Scorecard was an outgrowth of a rating system developed in the 1950s at the University of California at Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology. Although the authors of the rating system recognized that, historically, wine ratings rested in the hands of expert merchant tasters and focused on the needs of the wine buyers, their system was not developed as a tool for wine merchants. It was designed instead to help evaluate the department's experimental wines and therefore focused on identifying production defects. Later, it was used by highly skilled academic wine judges at Davis and then as a training tool for undergraduate and graduate enology students.
Once the scorecard was published (see M.A. Amerine, E.B. Roessler and F. Filipello, "Modern Sensory Methods of Evaluating Wine," Hilgardia, 28(18) June, 1959), the more general usefulness of this system was recognized. Its application broadened with time as the Scorecard became a model for scorecards developed by other academic enology departments, professional tasters, wine reviewers in the media and amateurs.
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UC Davis APPEARANCE (2) COLOR (2) AROMA and BOUQUET (4 total) VOLATILE ACIDITY (2 ) TOTAL ACIDITY (2 ) SWEETNESS (1) BODY (1) FLAVOR (2) BITTER/ASTRINGENT (2) GENERAL QUALITY (2) TOTAL RANKING (20) Taster: ____________________ Date: ______________________ |
Many of the rating systems evaluated by the NVC class are loosely based on the original UC Davis Scorecard concept. Analysis of the systems in use has brought to light several general problems which can lessen the effectiveness of these tools. The class found that the wine tasters do not use most systems analytically and objectively.
A significant problem with rating systems based on the UC Davis Scorecard is that a wine can be undrinkable and still get a passing overall grade. This is because the score for each category cumulates to equal a total rating for the wine, and a very low score in any one or two categories may not be enough to disqualify a wine that has high scores in other categories. For example, a wine with a brilliant appearance, gorgeous color, fruity, complex aroma and bouquet, and an unfortunate bitterness that renders it undrinkable could still get an overall rating of 14 (out of 20) on the UC Davis Scorecard, a passing grade. An undrinkable wine should not be granted such an honor.
Although many scorecards provide a ranking system to judge particular wine characteristics, and even provide space for detailed descriptions and analysis, few scoring sheets give the taster a way of meaningfully rating the intensity of specific positive and negative attributes of a wine or to analyze the way in which these characteristics interact with others and affect the taster's appreciation of the wine.
Some categories in most rating systems, for example, do not apply to all wines. Astringency, for example, is rarely an appropriate parameter for judging white wines, especially late-harvest whites, yet it is a category that requires a number in most rating systems. Different raters may rank these inappropriate categories differently, skewing the overall rating.
The point systems used by media reviewers usually give 100 points as the top ranking. It is common for 60 points to be the lowest rating in these systems, usually designating an undrinkable wine. However, the use of a 60 to 100-point scale sends a confusing message to the consumer since the numbers 0 to 59 are never used.
The evaluation by the NVC class of tasting procedures used by media critics found that many wines are presently rated in a subjective manner. For example, it is impossible to taste a wine objectively if the wine producer is known to the taster, yet blind tastings are not as common across the spectrum of media wine reviewing as one might think. If the wine critic is entertained or otherwise influenced by winery staff or winery hype, how can the consumer be assured that the critic's evaluation is even relatively objective unless the review is the result of a blind tasting? If the testing is not scientifically controlled, the ratings will not reflect a fixed property of the wine but more or less the critic's perception.
In addition, several studies have shown that problems arise if scorecards are too simple or too complex. If the scorecard is too simple and the taster is not given enough hurdles, many tasters make up their own judgment criteria or use non-standard criteria to describe a wine. The use of poetic but meaningless descriptions is very common. If the scorecard is too complex, the tasting can become too lengthy and the tasters may rush through important categories.
Taking the history, analysis and use of existing wine rating systems into account, a new scorecard was created by the Napa Valley College class. Because a rating system has to accommodate a multiplicity of functions, the NVC Scorecard is designed to allow the user to wear two hats: The wine can be objectively and thoroughly analyzed as is done under laboratory conditions, but the rating sheet also allows for findings that can advise the wine buyer and fulfill the historical role of the wine merchant. For example, the wine style, character and recommended aging windows can be noted as well as how the buyer might locate the wine and what it costs.
The NVC Scorecard is designed for use in conjunction with the tasting procedure described below. The rater should write notes on the scorecard after judging each category: Appearance, Odor and Taste. Once wine tasters use the tasting procedure and the scorecard several times, their wine tasting ability will become more objective and thorough, and their reporting will be more informative.
The hope is that both amateur and experienced tasters can use the NVC scorecard. The popular 2004 movie Sideways tells the story of two old buddies, Miles and Jack, who went on a wine tasting holiday together. It is hoped that both Miles, who swirled, sniffed, aerated and spoke of maceration and structure of the wines, and Jack, who tasted and had little more to say than "I like it," can both use the NVC Scorecard.
Preliminaries
Tasting can be called intelligent drinking. Pay attention to your senses. Around 350 BC, the Greek philosopher, Aristotle said man possesses five senses: sight, hearing, touch, smell and taste. To taste analytically, a few guidelines are helpful.
• Taste when you're fresh, say, 10:30 AM.
• Create a nice, quiet environment with no competing odors.
• Use good lighting: natural north light is best; fluorescent is worst.
• Tasting partners should have similar experience.
• Taste lighter, drier, younger, cheaper, whiter wines before their counterparts.
• Taste table wines at cellar temperature, about 55° F; sparkling wines at 45° F.
• Taste blind.
• Decant wines, if necessary, immediately before tasting: no "breathing" allowed.
• Spit, don't swallow.
• Don't be sick: physically, mentally or spiritually.
• Keep good notes and records.
• Use good wine glasses.
• Use white placemats.
If only one wine is to be tasted, follow the steps as outlined below. If more than one wine is to be tasted, it is better to complete the appearance analysis of all wines before proceeding to the aroma analysis and to complete that aroma analysis for all wines before tasting the wines.
It is important to first learn the correct language of wine tasting. The Aroma Wheel (www.winearomawheel .com) outlines the descriptors for wine aromas and bouquets nicely.
Appearance
Judging the appearance of wine is important because humans, unlike many mammals who eat by smell, eat basically by sight. The retina can reproduce a scene in color by means of a few sensory cell types, such as those dedicated to picking up the colors red, yellow and blue. A color spectrum is available for the eye. Seeing, touching and hearing are "hard wired" to dedicated circuits of the brain.
Now, tip the glass and look at the wine. Hold the glass at both a 30° and 45° angle against a white background. A curved edge of various depths can be observed. Color can cause unfair prejudgment so be careful. Observe and record:
• The wine's clarity. (Is it brilliant or hazy?) Cloudiness is rare, except in wines that need decanting.
• The color hue (tint or shade). Eventually, all wines take on tawny brown shades. There are no standard color descriptors. Use terms like purple, ruby, red, brick and tawny, straw, yellow, gold and amber.
• The color depth (how intense or deep). Qualify color hues with descriptors such as pale, light, medium and dark.
• There are other observations one can record, like the viscosity (thickness). Generally, only high-alcohol wines and dessert wines have detectible differences. Effervescence (for sparkling wine) also can be in table wines. CO2 is a byproduct of the primary fermentation of residual sugar or malolactic fermentation converting malic to lactic acid.
Odor
The descriptors for wine aroma and bouquet can be found on the Aroma Wheel. It is widely used by professional and amateur wine tasters.
Odor in the Glass: For a first impression, don't swirl the glass but sniff at its mouth to smell the wine's most volatile odors. Concentrate. Record the nature and intensity of the odor. Reference the Aroma Wheel for descriptors.
Now, to get a second impression, swirl the glass to release the less volatile compounds. Smell the wine again at the mouth of the glass and then deeper in the bowl. Concentrate. Record the nature and intensity of the odor. Are there any strange or off odors? Reference the Aroma Wheel. Proceed to next wine or step.
Tasting
The specific language used to describe wine must always be kept in mind. When tasting wine, there is a set of objective terms that should be used. Other terms are generally open to broad interpretation as to their meaning and should be avoided.
Now, take a small sample into your mouth: about 8 ml or 1-1/2 tsps. Keep the volume of each taste the same to get more valid results. Slosh the wine around inside your mouth to coat all surfaces. The first tastes are usually sweet and sour. Sweetness, if present, is most noticeable at the tip of the tongue. Sour is noted mainly at the sides of the tongue and the inside of the cheeks. Sweetness may begin to fade before bitterness is detected. It can take as long as 15 seconds before bitterness peaks, usually in the center rear of the tongue, so don't spit too soon. After tasting, notice the mouth feel (astringency, heat and spritz). These will not be localized but spread throughout the mouth. Do the mouth feel and flavors interact? Notice the body, balance and flavor. Again, note where you perceive sweet, acid and bitter, how soon you notice them, how strong they are, how long they last and how they change over time. Does the body of the wine change as the wine works its way to the back of the mouth? Does the body start out full, and then half or two-thirds of the way back becomes medium or thin? Does the wine clean the palate after you have swallowed or spit?
Other odors: Note the in-mouth odor. The wine has now been raised in temperature, and other compounds are liberated. Aspirate the wine by drawing air through the wine to liberate more compounds. To do this, tighten the jaw, contract the cheek muscles to pull the lips slightly ajar and slowly draw air through the wine. Concentrate on the type of odors, their development and duration. Note any difference between in-glass vs. in-mouth fragrances.
Aftersmell: After spitting the sample, draw air into the lungs. Hold it a bit. Breathe out through the nose. If any odor is detected, record it.
Finish: Concentrate on all the flavors, aromas and tactile sensations that linger. A longer finish usually means higher quality. Superior whites have fruity/floral essences, associated with refreshing acidity, and the best reds will have complex berry fragrances combined with flavorful tannins. Compare these with what you've already recorded. Record these.
Completing the ScoreCard
Overall Quality: How do all these sensations tie together? Think of complexity, balance, duration, power and memorable character. This marriage is the most important attribute of the wine.
Scoring and Praising: After the wine has been observed, smelled and tasted, numbers can be assigned and a final score calculated. From this score an assigned praise can be attached. (See the "Final Praises" on NVC Scorecard. Assignments range from perfect to ordinary to very bad.) It must be remembered that the vast majority of wine buyers and consumers do not care about scores. The major buyers care about a wine's style, how it tastes, what foods it accompanies, what it costs and where to buy it.
Thumbs Down: If a particular character is found in the wine making it undrinkable, e.g., rotten egg bouquet or high bitterness, mark the "Thumbs Down" spot and write the reason(s) for this action.
Repeat the Odor and Tasting procedure: Start over by swirling and smelling the glass. Go through the other steps and see if your perceptions change, or if the wine has changed.
Aging Potential: Well-balanced wines are always drinkable. How much longer will this wine be so?
Wine Style: Table wines are those that are best with meals or other accompanying foods. They're for drinking "sitting down." Social wines are those meant for sipping and enjoying without accompaniment. They're for drinking "standing up."
The most important attribute in white wines for food matching is the ability to cleanse the palate. The wine's acidity is mainly responsible for salivation and cleaning the palate. Once the wine is swallowed, does enough salivation occur to clean the palate? If yes, the wine can be considered to be a table wine. For red wines, astringency, as well as acid, can be an important attribute for complementing food. Is the balance of the wine such that it is enjoyable on its own and fits a social style? Will the wine fit both categories?
Once the wine style is decided, the role of the wine merchant takes center stage. For a table wine, what foods might it best accompany and at what temperature might it best be served? Where can the wine be purchased? What's it cost? Is it of great value, a fair price, a bit dear, overpriced or a rip-off?
We hope that educators, professional tasters, wine reviewers and wine merchants will find the NVC Scorecard friendy and easy to use, and helpful in eliminating the inconsistencies and problems that currently exist with skewed present-day scorecards. Here's to objectivity, ease and enjoyment. wbm
For a copy of the complete NVC Scorecard report, including student reviews of current wine rating systems, recommended wine tasting terms and multiple wine scorecards, email George at gjvnapa@inreach.com.
George Vierra has over 30 years' experience in both the bulk and premium wine industries in the areas of winery ownership, general management, production management, winemaking and education. He currently works as a consultant and lives in St. Helena, CA.
