Mendocino's historic and richly deserved reputation as America's pot capitol is finally giving way to a new reputation as producer of world class wines. Medals are being awarded and critics are oohing and ahhing over the likes of delicious pinot noirs from Drew Wines and intriguing chardonnays from Parducci Cellars. Bigger winery names such as Cakebread and Duckhorn are adding vineyards, opening wineries, and celebrating the prestige of Mendocino terroir. Indeed, not long ago fruit was quietly shipped out of the county to make wines elsewhere. And yet, despite all of the long-deserved recognition, the locals greet these changes with reluctant enthusiasm and a whiff of skepticism.