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Bottle fight: Novelty v classic wines; 'Diners on both sides of the Atlantic may search for classic bordeaux or full-blooded California Chardonnay in vain'

February 17, 2014

The fact that 90 per cent of all Chardonnay is deeply dull should not diminish our respect for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's Montrachet. Nor should Blossom Hill Merlot make us think any the worse of Petrus ...