June 22, 2016

On the table: Primeur

 It’s a wonderful thing to walk into a restaurant and have the atmosphere hit you in the face like a blast of warm air. Which is what happened when a friend and I visited Primeur on a quiet residential street in Canonbury – a 20-minute walk from Higbury and Islington – last Thursday for dinner. I’d been before, back when it opened to much acclaim in 2014 and many had decided it was their new favourite neighbourhood eating place. On the first visit it was a sticky summer’s day and, being in a former garage, staff had wrenched the great sliding door back to let in great swathes of sunlight. It was all so pretty, and our food was perfectly nice, but it was quiet and I remember thinking I’d like to return for dinner to see if things would be different.